(Photograph copyright 2010 by Dan Routh)

Across the country, the definition of barbecue is quite different. In North Carolina, it means pork. But even within the state there are disagreements about how to prepare it. Is it eastern style or Lexington style, vinegar based sauce or tomato based, whole hog or shoulders, chopped or pulled? To each his own, but I must admit it is all pretty good. Here, shoulders cook at a restaurant in Lexington, North Carolina. (Note: I prefer eastern style.)

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